Hello, Avatar! Here we have Bethany Hamilton popping up with one fucking arm as motivation that nothing is impossible. Although, it can be frustrating!
Mastering the pop-up is the first foundational function in surfing. It’s like performing a calculated burpee on a piece of wood while sliding down a hill of water. Looks easy even natural but can be tricky depending on the conditions.
As you could imagine, there is a very low margin for error. This is why Quoll insists you begin on the longboard and shave off length as you progress, unlike the clown.
Wait too long and you’re gonna have a bad time (gonna nose dive). Pop up too quickly and you’re gonna have a bad time (you miss the wave).
Before we jump in let’s review the anatomy of a surfboard one last time. I will be referencing the rails, nose, tail, deck, and the stringer during the post.
Before hopping into the water for your first time. Practice on the beach to gain muscle memory in a controlled environment, without waves or current to bother you.
If you give it an honest stab for 5 - 10 minutes it will drastically improve your odds of catching your first wave.
Yeah, you’re going to look like a total kook. But that’s okay. Embrace the awkwardness because you won’t be a kook for long if you follow this framework.
Regular Foot vs Goofy Foot
One last thing before we begin. There are two stances regular, where the left foot is forward (toward the nose) and the right foot is the back foot (toward the tail). The goofy foot stance is where the right foot is forward and the left foot is toward the tail.
My advice to beginners, try both and see which one you connect with the most. That being said most of you will be regular stance.
Pop up Procedure
The procedure will vary from wave to wave meaning it will take time to figure it out. Some waves are mushier and lack power and you will need to take a slower pop up by pushing down on the board. Other times the wave will be steeper and breaking faster, in that scenario, you will have to pop up much quicker.
This will give you the best chance at getting it done:
Lay down in the center of your board and keep your legs together and your toes at the end of the tail.
Unlike this cartoon in the image (below).
Simulate taking a few strokes, paddling into the sand
Hands reach toward the nose and pull the sand until you get by your waist, then repeat.
Keep your head up and on a swivel (looking side to side) and arch your back.
Repeat until you hit 10 strokes on each arm.
Once you feel the wave begin to move you down the face, begin the pop up sequence.
Keep your chin toward the nose so the weight of the board is pushed into the wave.
Note: In the water paddle 2-3 more times to ensure you catch the wave. Most people stop too early and the wave will roll right by them.
*Note on the image: In the first image, his toes should be on the tail (see red arrow). And on the third image, his feet should be shifted back more (see red lines).
Push up using with your hands flat on the deck under your chest.
As you push up, suck your front foot into your chest below your chin and try to place it between your hands.
While you pop up DO NOT LOOK DOWN, keep your head up looking and looking where you want to take the board.
As you bring your foot up place your back foot up on the tail turn your hips
Stay low, keep your knees bent with your arms at your side.
Pick a line and let her rip!
Remember: Your head acts as a steering wheel. Where you turn your head the rest of your body will follow. So if you’re looking down, take a wild guess where you are headed. *pun unintended*
Checklist For The Pop-Up
Ultimately how you practice is how you will perform in the water. Get your reps in and ensure you’re doing it properly before getting into the water.
This video does an excellent job summing up in a short amount of time. If reading a checklist is difficult and you are a visual learner, this will help.
Remember what to do:
Keep legs together and your toes on the tail
Lie on the center of the board, belly on the stringer.
As you paddle keep your head looking up and chin towards the nose
When pushing up, keep your hands flat on the deck at chest level.
Once you feel like you have the wave take two more strokes before popping up as an insurance policy.
What not to do:
Grab the rails of the board
Keep your head down
Lean too far up or down on the board
Keep your legs spread apart
How The Pros It
I will go over how to correctly angle the pop up when we revisit the advanced techniques for this exercise.
Give this a look and notice what the pros do to pop up so quickly. They all have their different quirks and techniques that they connect with the most.
This was also filmed in Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool so it’s a nice controlled environment where the wave is the same every time as opposed to the actual ocean.
In 2022 I will provide my own video content, I’m in the process of figuring out how to do this without doxxing myself. Until then see you in 2022 degens!
T’was written in the stars…